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We have prepared a blog explaining the most frequently used active ingredients and their effects for you. Everything you are curious about is here with you in Dermo Dictionary.
What Are They For, How Are They Used, and Who Are They Suitable For?
The ingredients you encounter on skincare labels can sometimes be confusing. The most reliable way to choose the right skincare product is to correctly read and understand product ingredients.
Our Skin Ingredient Guide provides answers to the most frequently asked questions about the most sought-after active ingredients in skincare products under the headings: what it does, how to use it, who should use it, and who should be cautious. This guide is prepared as a resource for everyone, from beginners to advanced skincare enthusiasts.
Hyaluronic Acid
What is Hyaluronic Acid? What Does It Do?
Hyaluronic Acid is a powerful moisturizer that can hold 1000 times its weight in water and increases moisture retention in the area. It restores skin plumpness, reduces the appearance of fine lines, and promotes a smooth texture. It helps maintain the skin's radiance and smoothness.
Who Should Use Hyaluronic Acid?
It is suitable for all skin types, especially dehydrated, dry, and skin that is easily affected and dried out by hot or cold weather. It can be easily used at any age to combat signs of aging and prevent skin deformation.
How and When Should Hyaluronic Acid Be Used?
Hyaluronic acid serums are applied to slightly damp skin immediately after cleansing. They can be used morning, evening, or whenever needed during the day. To ensure its effectiveness, the skin must be supported with a moisturizer afterward.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
It reduces the appearance of pores, evens out skin tone, and regulates sebum production. It also helps soothe redness on the skin. It is even suitable for sensitive skin.
What does it do?
Niacinamide; by regulating sebum balance, it reduces the appearance of pores, evens out skin tone, and strengthens the skin barrier.
Who Should Use Niacinamide?
It is suitable for oily, combination, acne-prone, and blemish-prone skin.
How / When is Niacinamide used?
It can be used as a serum morning or evening. Sensitive skin should start with lower concentrations (5% or less).
What is Retinol?
Retinol accelerates skin renewal; it helps improve the appearance of imperfections, blemishes, and acne. It is one of the most effective solutions among anti-aging ingredients.
Who Should Use Retinol?
It is suitable for mature skin and those with acne issues. Sensitive skin should use it with caution.
How and When Should Retinol Be Used?
Retinol is used only in the evening routine. During the day, it is essential to use a sunscreen containing a high SPF (at least SPF 30). Is retinol used every day? NO. It is recommended to use it 2–3 nights a week.
What is Vitamin C? (Ascorbic Acid)
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that brightens the skin, reduces the appearance of blemishes, and supports collagen production. It protects the skin against free radicals.
Who Should Use Vitamin C?
It is suitable for mature skin, dull, lifeless, blemish-prone skin, skin experiencing loss of elasticity, and acne-prone skin. Sensitive skin should use it with caution. First-time users should start with low doses.
How Is Vitamin C Used?
It is recommended for the morning routine. It should be applied after cleansing, and sunscreen must be applied afterward. Vitamin C serums can be applied to dry skin, as well as slightly damp skin. Determine the most compatible products for your skin to advance your skincare routine effectively.
What is AHA - Alpha Hydroxy Acid? What Does It Do?
AHA is a water-soluble acid. It works on the top layer of the skin. Other acids in the AHA group include tartaric acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and lactic acid. All of these acids have exfoliating properties and accelerate the removal of dead skin cells. This way, the skin texture is improved, and cell renewal is promoted.
What Does Glycolic Acid Do?
The molecular structure of Glycolic Acid, which is in the AHA group, is smaller than other AHA acids. This allows it to break down much faster and work more effectively. With its peeling effect, it cleanses dead skin cells, smooths skin texture, and evens out skin tone.
How to Use Glycolic Acid?
It can be used as a glycolic treatment for dull and blemished skin, as well as for darkening in knees, elbows, and underarms, and for strawberry-like skin blemishes. For sensitive skin, preference varies among lower concentrations of glycolic acid.
What is BHA - Beta Hydroxy Acid? What Does It Do?
BHA is an oil-soluble acid. Like AHAs, it has the ability to exfoliate the dead skin layer. However, BHA works in the deeper layers of the skin. For this reason, it is more effective for blackheads and acne problems. The most well-known BHAs are salicylic acid, tropic acid, tretinoic acid, betaine salicylate, and salix alba acid.
What is Salicylic Acid? What Does It Do?
Salicylic Acid is stronger and more effective than other BHAs. It helps with the sebum condition of the skin. By clearing pores, it removes the oils that cause their enlarged appearance. It prevents the formation of blackheads and acne.
Who Should Use Salicylic Acid?
Salicylic Acid can be used by those with oily and acne-prone skin. Since it will balance sebum structure, it helps to achieve a more regular skin structure through regular use and its effect on appearance.
How to Use Salicylic Acid?
It should be used 2–3 times a week as part of the general evening routine. It should not be used in the same routine as Retinol.
Peptides
They are molecules smaller than proteins. They are formed by the combination of at least two amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. Peptides send a message of "renew, repair, strengthen" within the content, helping to trigger collagen production and combat signs of aging. Increasing skin elasticity, peptides are especially found in products that prevent aging, remove wrinkles, and strengthen the skin barrier.
What Do Peptides Do?
Peptides help trigger collagen and elastin production, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, increase skin elasticity, and make the skin look firmer and plumper. They strengthen the skin barrier and help with moisture retention and soothing. With regular use, they support maintaining a smoother, more vibrant, and healthier appearance.
What are the Types of Peptides?
Signal Peptides : Collagen production triggers
Carrier Peptides: Helps deliver minerals to the skin
Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides: Prevents collagen breakdown
Neuropeptides: Helps with the appearance of expression lines
Biomimetic Peptides: Transmit messages of "Produce Collagen, Repair, Strengthen" to the skin.
For this reason, peptides are frequently preferred in products seeking a Botox-like effect.
How to Use Peptides?
Products containing peptides are usually found as serums or creams.
• Skin Cleansing to Unclog Pores
• PH Balancing with Toner
• Peptide Serum
• Application of Moisturizing Cream
• Sunscreen (If it is morning routine)
When Should Peptides Be Used?
Morning: To protect the skin throughout the day
Evening: To support skin renewal
Peptides are one of the most reliable building blocks of a skin care routine when used regularly and in the right environment. Patient and consistent use yields the best results.
Which Ingredients Can Peptides Be Used With?
• Hyaluronic acid
• Niacinamide
• Ceramides
• Panthenol
• Vitamin C (with most formulas)
Ceramide refers to fat (lipid) molecules that are naturally found in the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin, and constitute the essential building blocks of the skin barrier. Approximately 50% of a healthy skin barrier is composed of ceramides. Used in skincare formulations, ceramides protect the skin's natural barrier performance and contribute to moisture retention, temperature regulation, and protection against daily external factors. They are indispensable for dry and sensitive skin.
The main benefits of ceramides for the skin are as follows:
• Protects the skin against external factors
• Helps soothe redness and sensitivity
• Makes the skin appear smoother and healthier
• Slows down the acceleration of aging signs
In skin with a ceramide deficiency, issues such as dryness, flaking, burning sensations, and irritation are commonly seen.
What Are the Types of Ceramides?
The most commonly used types of ceramides in skincare are:
• Ceramide NP : Strengthens the skin barrier and prevents moisture loss. Perfect for sensitive and dry skin.
• Ceramide AP : Ensures skin texture renewal and provides smoothness. Has restorative properties.
• Ceramide EOP : Maintains the integrity of the skin barrier and provides protection against damage.
• Plant-based (phytoceramides) : Derived from plants; provide moisture but have lower compatibility with the skin compared to biomimetic ceramides.
• Synthetic (biomimetic) ceramides : Substances known biologically to the skin and are easily recognized and utilized by the skin.
Biomimetic ceramides : These are the ones closest to the skin's own ceramide structure and provide higher compatibility.
The skin barrier is the protective layer separating the skin from the outside world. If you experience this weakness:
· The skin may lose moisture faster
· Sensitivity and redness increase
· Issues like acne and eczema can be triggered
Products containing ceramide help to repair and replenish the skin barrier. For this reason, ceramides are a popular and beloved barrier-repairing ingredient.
Things to Consider When Using Skincare Products
• If you are going to try a new ingredient, always test it on your wrist first
• Introduce active ingredients into your routine gradually
• When using retinol and acids, always use a sunscreen with high SPF
• Always check the compatibility of the ingredients
While building your skincare routine, make sure to pay attention to these. And remember that a good result will not happen overnight. It requires consistency and discipline. To achieve results, always use the right amount of product at the right time and regularly.
